How To Make Big Prints From Small Images
If you use a low resolution digital camera, say a 2
megapixel, the largest size print you can reasonably
make is about 5x7. Anything bigger and pixilation
becomes apparent. The larger the print, the worse the
pixilation will be. Some software will allow you to
increase the number of pixels by interpolating the
original image using the "nearest neighbor" algorithm
thus giving you more pixels and theoretically the
opportunity to produce a larger print. However, the
result was generally unsharp, and usually unacceptable,
albeit larger, prints.
In the newer "higher end" digital imaging software such
as Adobe Photoshop and Adobe Elements, there is now
a feature that permits you to increase the pixel density
of low resolution digital images while retaining amazingly
good results when making larger prints. With the Image
Resize option you can adjust the Width and Height to
the desired new size, set the Resolution to 200
pixels/inch, turn on Constraint Proportions, and select
Bicubic from the dropdown menu. This will provide you
with a new, large image file from which you can make
much bigger prints with acceptable quality.
Are the results as good as a print made from an image
taken with a high resolution camera? The answer is no,
not quite. Prints made from an original, high resolution
image will always produce cleaner, crisper, sharper
images. But, when viewed from a normal viewing
distance, you'll be hard pressed to distinguish between
the two.
So, for those occasions when you don't have a high
resolution image and you want to make a large print
from a low resolution image, Adobe Photoshop 7.0 or
Adobe Elements is definitely worth considering. In fact,
I highly recommend either of these applications for
anyone doing anything with photographic images. At
around $90 for Adobe Elements you won't find a more
powerful digital imaging application for the money. It's
also about $500 less that its big brother, Photoshop,
which is another good reason to check Elements out
first.
Buy Adobe Elements Now...
|
| |
I apologize for not publishing a June newsletter and for
not replying to pending emails from some of you.
Unfortunately, since the May edition I lost one of my
sisters, Marilyn, to cancer and my father, Fred, to a
heart attack. I've consequently had to make multiple
trips to England and Australia to be with family. It has
been a sad month for sure.
I'd like to dedicate this July issue of the newsletter to
my sister and dad. May they both rest in eternal peace.
|
| |
| |
| |
| Sceneramic Places - Mornington Peninsula, Victoria, Australia | | |
 The Mornington Peninsula is located about an hours
drive south of Melbourne, Victoria. While most visitors
to the State take in the sights of the City and
surrounding areas to the north, east and west, few
venture south to the peninsula. That's a shame
because the peninsula has a lot to offer from its
pristine beaches to locally owned and operated wineries
to great seaside getaways. If you're looking for a
variety of things to do but don't want to do a lot of
driving, the peninsula's the place for you.Ferries from Sorrento and Portsea on the south end of
the peninsula provide access to Phillip Island and to the
Bellarine Peninsula. Taking the ferry versus driving
around the bay will save you a few hours of drive time
which you can put to better use exploring on the other
side. See Full Article... | | |
| F-Stops and Shutter Speeds | | |
 Even for avid camera buffs it's sometimes a challenge
understanding the relationship between f-stops and
shutter speeds. Here's a couple of concepts to help
you keep things straight. The smaller the f-stop number
the more light is allowed through the camera lens to
the film. Similarly, the slower the shutter speed the
more light is allowed through the lens to the film. One
full f-stop has the same effect on governing the
amount of light allowed through the lens as changing
the shutter speed by one full setting. As an example,
an exposure of 1/250 sec and f5.6 allows the exact
same amount of light in through the lens as does a
setting of 1/125 sec and f8.0. So what does fiddling
with the f-stop and shutter speed do?Basically, it lets you do a few things. First, changing
the f-stop allows you to control the depth of field of
subjects within your picture: the larger the f-stop
number, the greater the depth of field. Second,
changing the shutter speed allows you to control how a
fast moving subject is captured on film: a faster
shutter speed results in a sharper image of the moving
subject, while a slower shutter speed allows for a
blurred rendition of the moving subject so as to
suggest its movement. Third, controlling the overall
exposure by adjusting both the f-stop and shutter
speed allows you to compensate for various lighting
conditions so as to correctly expose the film with the
right amount of light. Of course, there are a host of
other reasons for wanting to control the exposure. I
plan on writing an in-depth report on this very topic in
a future issue. Go To Sceneramic Photography... | | |
| Bracketing Your Exposures | | |
 I'm sure, as we all have, you've taken a few pictures
only to find out afterwards you'd goofed on the
exposure and the final prints were either under or
overexposed. Prints made from underexposed film
exhibit a milky appearance and lack detail in the
shadows while print made from overexposed film exhibit
washed out colors and lack detail in the highlights.
Slide film is far less tolerant to deviations from the
correct exposure compared to negative film. Negative
film is much more forgiving and can usually tolerate a
deviation of one full f-stop without any noticeable
deterioration in the final print. Of course, the best
results will always be achieved from a correctly
exposed image.If you're unsure of the lighting conditions and you want
a little protection -- especially when taking critical or
once in a life time shots -- take a series of bracketed
shots. This is especially important when using slide film.
Bracketing your shots simply means taking the original
shot at what you believe to be the correct exposure
then taking two more shots with one being slightly
underexposed and the other slightly overexposed
compared to the original exposure. This pretty much
guarantees you'll end up with one of the shots being
right on the money. Over time as you get to know your
camera's exposure characteristics you'll begin to
recognize when you need to bracket your shots based
on how your camera handles particular situations. This
technique is applicable to digital cameras, too. Go To Sceneramic Photography... | | |
| Make Sure To Take Your Camera | | |
 Okay, for those of us in the northern hemisphere we're
moving into our summertime. That means camping trips,
vacations, hikes and all kinds of other outdoor
activities. These are all perfect picture taking
opportunities. The truth is, though, many people either
chose not to take their cameras along for whatever
reason, or they plain forget to take it. If you fit into
one of these categories, stop and think for a minute
about all those times you came home saying to
yourself, "I wish I'd had my camera with me." Well,
although you told yourself that, I bet you still forget to
take your camera along next time.So, do yourself a favor. Leave your camera with your
travel or hiking things. Go on, go do it now while you're
thinking about it. That way when you pack for your
next trip, hike, or whatever, your camera's going to be
right there ready to go. If you use your camera a lot
for other things, buy another one. Camera's are cheap
enough nowadays that buying one to leave with your
travel stuff isn't going to break your piggy bank. Next
time that once in a lifetime shot comes along
and you've got your camera to record the event you're
going to be so glad you had it with you. Go To Sceneramic Photography | | |
| Tell Someone You Love Them | | |
 Take the time to tell someone how much you love them
and tell them in such a way they understand exactly
what you're conveying to them. Do it today because
someday today will be your last chance.Go To Sceneramic Photography | | |
|